Watches: 6 Reasons To Love The Tribute To Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC

When you think of dive watches, it is impossible not to think Blancpain! And this year, the manufacture have launched, what I think is one of the sexiest watches produced in years - from anyone, yup - anyone. So this is a tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC (military issue basically - 1957-58) watch. Designed for function, not aesthetic, It was in 1953, when Blancpain was able to deliver a watch to the French combat swimmers corps that fully met their criteria. The watch would go on to become one of the essential pieces of kit for any frogman worth his salt.

Here are the 7 reasons why you should consider it to be your next watch:  

1. Look at it - just look at it!! It has all the features I love from the original Fifty Fathoms, but with the robust manufacturing of a modern watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel covered in scratch-resistant sapphire, a Blancpain innovation which first appeared in 2003 with the 50th Anniversary Fifty Fathoms, protects the luminescent indications underneath.

2. The unusual circular water-tightness indicator on the dial is seriously cool. If, by chance, liquid were to leak into the watch case, a disk at 6 o’clock would signal the problem by changing its colour from white to red. This water-tightness indicator was present on the dial of the Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC 1, which was introduced in 1957-58 to meet the strict requirements of the military. 

3. The watch is fitted with Blancpain’s in-house automatic winding caliber 1151, comprising 210 components including two series-coupled mainspring barrels and offering a four-day power reserve (visible through the clear sapphire case back). 

4. This watch is a comfy 40mm in diameter. Its black dial features indexes in Super-LuminNova® and a water-tightness indicator recalling the designs of the 1950s MIL-SPEC 1. 

5. The watch is water resistant to 30 bar, which is equivalent to 300 meters - as you would expect.

6. It is limited to 500 examples - so your not gonna see one down the public pools anytime soon!

For further info head over to Blancpain here. 

Event: IWC Pop Up At HARRODS

Its a fact many aren't aware of. Harrods, the central London mega store actually began as a wholesale grocers' and tea merchants in east London, first opening its doors in 1834. Since then, it has grown to become the world’s most famous department store, and as a watch geek - they have it all! And one brand I have long admired is IWC Schaffhausen. It is the year of the Da Vinci which launched earlier in the year at SIHH. And if you are yet to get hands on with the watch this new collection will be brought to life in Harrods’ Fine Watch Room for the month of May, with a unique pop up exhibition.

Created exclusively for Harrods, the unique setting of specially designed showcases and elegant graphics will give customers and time piece enthusiasts a glimpse into the new Da Vinci Collection, a modern interpretation of the iconic IWC designs from the 1980s. 

Im told that the great Leonardo Da Vinci himself was inspired by the harmonious symmetry of the 19 intertwined circles, studying its mathematical properties and nuances in his quest for the code of beauty. In keeping with this hidden code, a kaleidoscope photo booth will be positioned in the centre of the fine watch room and will allow passers-by to take a photograph of themselves with the geometric elements of the intertwined “Flower of Life” design being reflected back. Other pieces from IWC’s Portofino and Pilot collections will also be on display for customers to experience the breadth that IWC has to offer.

MR PORTER Launch Montblanc Summit Collection

When I sit with friends from outside of the watch world, their first question tends to be 'is the watch industry dead now there are smart watches'?. And typically I go down the path of explaining the impact on the industry at certain price points etc. But in truth, as I write this and ponder, the truth is, nobody knows for sure other than there is lots to be excited about. 

In the last 12 months Iv had the pleasure of getting hands on with a multitude of smartwatches. And one new launch that totally blew me away was the Montblanc Sumit watch. I got to see it at the MR PORTER press day a few weeks back. Not only does it have the technical applications one would expect, it also has the look and feel of a traditional mechanical watch - which I love. 

So the big news is that MR PORTER is launching the Smartwatch Collection on site today, available exclusively for two weeks before the collection is available for general release across Montblanc boutiques internationally. The Montblanc Summit Collection is the Maison’s first smartwatch in cooperation with Google. From a design perspective, the case is either a 46mm black PVD coated stainless steel, stainless steel, bi-colour stainless steel or grade 5 Titanium, and comes with a selection of sporty and classic straps in rubber, calfskin leather, and Sfumato calfskin leather handcrafted in the Montblanc Pelletteria in Florence. The slightly curved sapphire glass is a world first in smartwatches (its always cool to be first right). From a technical standpoint, pre-installed apps include Runtastic, Google Play, Google Assistant, Uber and Foursquare and key features comprise of a full round touch-screen display, heart-rate monitor, barometer and a 4GB Flash storage that can be used to sync and play music without the need of a smartphone - all connected via Wi-Fi® and Bluetooth®. And the best news of all - prices start from £765 

Check out more over on MR PORTER here. 

What To Buy: Anthony Anthony Joshua Watch Game

It was the final meeting between Anthony Joshua and Wladimir Klitschko before they step foot into the ring on the 29th April 2017. I couldn't help but notice the watches on show. Anthony, who famously still lives with his mother in a council flat boasts a serious collection of watches. In the build up to the big fight we have seen him in multiple variations of Audemars Piguet Offshore. But in this final press conference, he stepped up his game in an AP Royal Oak Extra Thin Tourbillon. The man has class. Great to see. 

Image: Horbiter

Laurent Ferrier Swiss Fine Timing Limited Edition

If you are a frequent reader of these pages, you will be well aware of my fascination with independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier. They are quite frankly producing art for the wrist. Modern watchmaking simply doesn't get much better. Supremely understated, their level of movement finishing is right up there with the legendary Mr Dufour. And today they have announced a limited edition of 10 pieces exclusively available at retailer Swiss Fine Timing in Chicago. It's a Galet Square (the perfect dress watch) with delicious black Grand Feu enamel sector dial and unique lugs.  Hurry..they won't be around for long. 

Click here for more.

Top 5 Lots At Phillips Auction 5

Its auction season again. And no-one touches Phillips when it comes to vintage watches. The fifth instalment of the Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo sale is taking place In Geneva on the 13-14th May 2017. Having had the privilege of seeing the lots in London this week, I can confirm there is lots to get the humble watch geek's pulse racing! Here are my top 5 (with some literature from Phillips on the lots provonance). 

1. 1967 Rolex launched the Sea-Dweller

In 1967 Rolex launched the Sea-Dweller dive watch, which established a new standard in performance and technology with its incredible depth rating of 2000 feet, or 610 meters, and the first ever integration of a helium escape valve (HEV). This advanced design allowed divers to dive deeper, and keep track of dive times without fear the watch may fail. Rolex developed the HEV in order to allow tiny helium atoms, which built up within the case during dives, to be released, thus reducing the risk of potential failure. When first released, Rolex was still working towards the patent for this new technology, and therefore early Sea- Dwellers were engraved with the wording “Patent Pending Rolex Oyster Gas Escape Valve” on the case back. 

Dating from 1967, the dial is a Mark 1 (Mk1) type with the double red printed Sea-Dweller on the first line, and Submariner 2000 on the second. The signature consisted of the red print placed on top of white, that over time, faded to a light pink tone. The Mark 1 dial is characterized by equal-sized fonts used for all words within these two lines of red text. The case back interior features the last three digits of the watch’s serial number - stamped 464, as well as IV.67. Furthermore, it’s fitted with its original Oyster bracelet, with a rare “Pat Pend”-signed extension piece.
 

Accompanied with extensive and original documentation, the watch was originally given “on loan” in 1971 by a Rolex authorized dealer based in Singapore. An employee of Divcon-Oceaneering AG at the time, he was asked by Rolex to test the watch and regularly provide status reports and images regarding the watch and its performance at sea. 

After providing in-depth analysis and test results, documenting the watch’s performance on oil-related dives in Indonesia and Malaysia, Rolex Geneva formally thanked him for his efforts in 1972. This letter also gifts the watch to the diver, after disclosing Rolex’s newly executed, exclusive agreement with COMEX that precluded them from working with other diving firms.

The owner’s records are the first official documents that show Rolex’s efforts to develop the HEV were not exclusive to COMEX. They are the most extensive set of documents, from original issue, to actual watch testing, to final communication from Rolex Geneva, to have surfaced for such an important dive watch.
 

Manufacturer: Rolex
Year: 1967
Reference No: 1665
Movement No: D049393
Case No: 2'117'464
Model Name: "Patent Pending" Sea-Dweller "Double Red" 
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster, stamped 9315, 
end links stamped 285, 200mm max. length
Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel twin lock folding clasp, stamped 3.70
Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter
Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, outer case back signed "Rolex Patent Pending Oyster Gas Escape Valve"
Accessories: Accompanied by Storekeeper's Delivery Note No. 68719 (The Borneo Company Singapore SDN BHD) for loan of one Sea Dweller 1665, case number 2117464, various Rolex correspondence, dive reports and typed test results of the watch from the original owner.

Estimate
CHF100,000 - 200,000  
$99,100 - 198,000
€92,600 - 185,000

2.  Fifty Fathoms - Milspec I

Just after World War II, the offer of diver’s watches was low. When the French military combat divers’ elite troops’ captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutnant Claude Riffaud looked for a tool watch to accompany their frogmen in their missions, they were unable to find a watch that met all their requirements: a unidirectional rotating bezel , a water-resistant case, an automatic winding movement (to minimize the number of times the crown is pulled out) and protection from magnetic fields. By designing this watch, the two men actually set the standards for modern divers watches. While their search for a watch manufacture that would produce their watch was a daunting task, they met with Mr Fiechter, Blancpain’s CEO, the partner they had been looking for.

Since its launch in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has gained iconic status within the watchmaking and diving world, having also undergone several variations. The present example is the very sought after MILSPEC I version with a humidity tester at 6 o’clock. Despite some military specifications, the present watch is a civilian version as shown by the two parts body case, the bi directional bezel and the luminous diamond hour marker at 12 o’clock. The back of the case is further engraved with the retailer’s name, in this case the diving equipment store Barakuda. 

Manufacturer: Blancpain
Year: circa 1970
Case No: 207'956
Model Name: Fifty Fathoms - Milspec I
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. AS 1700., 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Apollo Tropic strap, marked 20-21mm, reference 23055
Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions: 41mm. Diameter
Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
Accessories: Accompanied by Blancpain Fifty Fathoms exhibition certificate and original paper tag from the 275th anniversary exhibition

Estimate
CHF20,000 - 30,000  
$19,800 - 29,700
€18,500 - 27,800

3. Patek Philippe Ref 530 

There are certain references of Patek Philippe wristwatches that can be considered the ultimate in terms of rarity, desirability, and aesthetic beauty. The oversized chronograph reference 530, such as the present lot, is without any doubt, one of these.

Reference 530 was first launched in 1937, and remains one of the rarest chronograph models manufactured by the firm. Even though it takes design cues from its sister model, reference 130, the case size of reference 530 remains substantial even to today’s standards with a whopping 36.5mm. diameter.

The case and dial design of the present lot hit all the right notes. The perfect equilibrium between the case diameter and thickness, the powerful lugs and concave bezel speak of highly contemporary elegance. The gorgeous silver dial has turned a pleasing vanilla, the crisp hard enamel printing and ultra rare Breguet numerals exude beauty and grace. 

The present lot is the only known reference 530 in yellow gold with Breguet numerals (as confirmed by the Extract from the Archives). Since its production in 1949 this watch has appeared on the international auction market once, in 2011, flying past its high estimate and breaking the world record for a yellow gold reference 530. 

This reference 530 is not only rare but the Breguet numeral dial and incredible untouched condition give it almost a mythical status.

Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: 1949
Reference No: 530
Movement No: 867'650
Case No: 511'605
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 13"", 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Leather
Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold pin buckle signed PPCo
Dimensions: 36.5mm. Diameter
Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture in 1949 with Breguet numerals and subsequent sale on August 12th, 1950.
Literature: Reference 530 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 265

Estimate
CHF300,000 - 600,000  
$297,000 - 595,000
€278,000 - 556,000

4. Patek Philippe 3700/11

The most interesting elements about Gerald Genta’s iconic designs are the stories that lay behind their creation. Recognized today as the greatest watch designer of the era with world famous successes such as Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Cartier Pasha, Universal Polerouter and many more, Mr Genta's creativity was boundless. The story behind the design of the Nautilus, besides the inspiration of the porthole, says that the designer sketched one of the most sought after designs in history in 5 minutes while watching Patek Philippe executives sitting in a corner of a hotel dining room. 

The present Nautilus Jumbo reference 3700/11 displays a definitely unique vintage look. The usually dark grey dial has dramatically turned to a gold tropical color that reminds us of a tiger’s eye chatoyant gemstone with its golden to red-brown color and silky lustre. 

Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: 1980
Reference No: 3700/11
Movement No: 1'309'286
Case No: 540'831
Model Name: Nautilus "Jumbo" 
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 28-255C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Nautilus bracelet, max length 195mm. 
Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel folding deployant clasp
Dimensions: 42mm. Diameter
Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Accessories: Accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture of the watch in 1980 and its subsequent sale on May 11th, 1982

Estimate
CHF40,000 - 60,000  
$39,600 - 59,500
€37,100 - 55,600

5. Gübelin Chronograph 

Gübelin is a Swiss-based, family-owned, jewelry and watch retailer founded in 1854. What started out as a small watchmaker’s watch shop in the picturesque town of Lucerne has today become a Swiss powerhouse selling the most prestigious watch brands. 

Not content with putting its signature on dials next to the names of famous brands it retailed, Gübelin decided, in the early 1920s, to commission some of the greatest Swiss makers such as Audemars Piguet, Haas Neveux or Niton to create unique, attractive and sophisticated watches bearing solely the Gübelin signature on the dial.

The present lot from the 1950s is a mystery in the sense that Phillips say they have never seen another Gübelin square chronograph like it on the market. Its vividly contemporary 34mm. X 34mm. white gold case wears much larger on the wrist than the size suggests due to its square shape. The case is in fact quite similar if not identical to the Rolex reference 3529 but larger. 

Many elements set the present lot apart from other square chronographs from prestigious brands such as Rolex, Universal Geneve or Mathey-Tissot produced in the 1940s-1950s. First is its sheer size, almost 70% larger than those from the previously mentioned brands whose cases measured 26mm X 26mm or less. The second element is the white gold case, a metal we have not yet seen before in any other square chronograph of that era. These elements lead us to believe that this watch was executed upon special order and could quite possibly be a unique piece.

The case is superbly well preserved with perfectly crisp hallmarks above the bottom chronograph pusher and the top left lug, we are of the opinion the case has never been polished. 
 

Manufacturer: Gübelin
Year: circa 1950
Case No: 165'649
Material: 18k white gold
Calibre: Manual, cal.72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Leather
Clasp/Buckle: 18k white gold buckle
Dimensions: 34mm. X 34mm.
Signed: Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
CHF20,000 - 40,000  
$19,800 - 39,600
€18,500 - 37,100

5 Things You Need To Know About The Junghans Meister Driver Day Date

I am a sucker for all things simple (but paradoxically have a passion for watches). When it comes to watches, clean lines get me going! I am therefore a huge fan of Junghans the German watchmaker founded in the Black Forest town of Schramberg in 1861 (particularly their Max Bill range!). 

The Meister Driver is their latest edition to the ranks. And its a beauty! Here are the 5 things you need to know:

1. Arthur Junghans, son of the company founder Erhard Junghans, was a close friend of Gottlieb Daimler and Wilhelm Maybach - as a byproduct their watches tend to have an automotive focus. 

2. The new Meister Driver contains a J800.4 self-winding movement with a power reserve of up to 38 hours and rapid date correction (weekday display at 12 o'clock and date at 6 o'clock).

3. The Case is stainless steel 40.4, height 11.9 mm, with a mineral crystal back where you can admire the movement. 

4. The watch boasts a vintage inspired convex dial with polished lacquer, hour / minute markers (plus environmentally-friendly Super Luminova). 

5. You'll be KILLING it with this on the wrist, an open denim shirt from Drakes and a pair of boots from Edward Green. 

For more - check out the Junghans website here. 

MR PORTER x Bell & Ross

In November last year I reported on Revolution that IWC was to begin retailing on MR PORTER. There I outlined how I felt it was a momentous moment for the industry, likely to see many leading global brands following suit. This week we see MR PORTER announce a global partnership with Bell & Ross. Those aviation and vintage watch guys among you will be pleased to know that you won't have to wait long before picking up your Edward Green shoes or Canali suit alongside your new Bell and Ross with the official launch being Tuesday the 4th of April. MR PORTER will carry a curated selection of 21 timepieces across the Bell & Ross Vintage and Instruments Collections. Within the 11 timepieces from the Vintage Collection, standout models include the WW1, BR 123 and BR 126 Chronograph. Of the 10 timepieces from the iconic Instruments Collection, highlight models include the BR 03 and BR S.

Designed with four key principles in mind – Legibility, Functionality, Reliability and Precision – and with inspiration drawn from the history of aviation. Bell & Ross watches are much like marmite. They are bold - and like many great brands, they do what they do and they do it well!. As a result, they boast a hardcore, loyal group of fans around the wrold. 

“We are thrilled to be launching Bell & Rosson MR PORTER, an independent brand creating true utilitarian timepieces, with a unique blend of contemporary and heritage style. Our customers will have the pleasure of browsing a curated selection of 21 styles, ideal for both the aspirational buyer as well as the established watch collector.”  Mr Toby Bateman, Managing Director, MR PORTER

Prices range from £1,400 to £5,000

Make sure you set a reminder in your calendar for the 4th April and head over to MR PORTER. 

What To Buy: Roger Dubuis Open Doors At Harrods

If you're a watch geek like myself - this news will be like music to your ears.

Just when you thought the London's watch scene couldn't get any better - Roger Dubuis open a flagship boutique within Harrods.  

This is the first ever UK Roger Dubuis boutique in the UK. The concept and construction has been overseen directly by the brand’s Creative Director, Alvaro Maggini, and it is heralded as strategically important by CEO, Jean-Marc Pontroué.

Roger Dubuis watches aren't for everyone. And this was echoed by CEO Mr Jean-Marc Pontroué when I interviewed him in Harrods last year during their pop up.  As well as stressing their rarity, he also expressed his interest in London and its importance in the watch world. So this opening is not all together unsurprising. Not only are their designs bold, their prices can be eye watering. Thats why Roger Dubuis is where you go when you have everything. 

5 Reasons To Love The Habring2 Erwin

1. Habring² is a small independent manufacturer founded by husband-and-wife duo Richard & Maria Habring (Richard Habring previously worked for IWC where he developed the rattrapante (split-seconds chronograph). You have to love a small, artisanal business.

2. Because Habring² only produce a limited number of watches a year - as an owner you'll be part of a very small club. 

3. In 2014, Habring² developed an in-house A11B (base) caliber (a big deal for any manufacturer). And In the Erwin, we see the evolution of the A11B caliber with the edition of jumping seconds/dead-beat complication to create the A11S.

4. The development of the movement is one thing - but even better is the fact that Erwin 'looks' so damn simple - but really isn't. On first glance many would dismiss Erwin as a quartz watch and only you know its not. 

5. Erwin is not only beautiful - he's perfectly proportioned at 38.5mm - the ultimate in versatility. 

Check out more from Habring² here

Bell & Ross Launch Accessories

You will most likely know Bell & Ross as 'the square watch guys'. While that is true, they do make tool watches inspired by the inside of a cockpit, they also make some very reasonably priced and beautiful round dress watches.  To accompany the launch of its new website, Bell & Ross is unveiling a new collection of small leather goods, exclusively available on its online store (a move we see across the watch industry). Designed by Bruno Belamich, the Creative Director of the brand for whom “this selection of nomadic and functional watch accessories is primarily intended for the protection of our watches as part of a journey. Available in two color tones with timeless elegance, I also wish to develop complementary creations in the future.”

The accessories come in black and camel leather, the brands trademark colours, and include two cases for one watch, a solid one and a smooth one, a soft case or holder for 6 watches, and a card holder to slide into a pocket or a briefcase. The perfect partner for your BR01?

For more info click here. 

The Watch Gallery x Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Reverso is a watchmaking icon. Of that there is no doubt. But as all watch lovers know, the pinnacle is to own a watch you won't see in the wild! The Watch Gallery, one of the UK's premier retailers and Jaeger-LeCoultre, one of the great movement makers have teamed up to create 30 Limited Edition Reverso's to celebrate the Reverso's 85th anniversary. The blue-lacquered dial is delicious and the automatic Calibre 967B inside is robust. You can't go wrong.

For more info click here. 

Watches: The Bamford Heritage MilSub

A deeply immersive story of one mans dream to be at one with the ocean. And he happens to have a killer watch on while doing it!

"A lone freediver escapes to another world underwater where his impossible dreams become reality."

"The Superman" is a labour of love project for filmmakers Jack Pirie & Alex Hylands-White, made in collaboration with underwater photographers The Ocean Brothers and Bamford Watch Department. The short film follows diver Francisco Del Rosario, who lives on the remote island of El Hierro in the Canary Islands.

Written & Directed by Jack Pirie & Alex Hylands-White

For further info check out The Bamford Watch Department here.